Re-Assembly BLOG

This is turning my shell back to a finished car, i.e. lights, bumpers, interior, brakes, fuel system, interior, etc.

Friday February 17th 2017

Removed petrol tank & cleaned it up. Cleaned windscreen, wrapped it in bubblewrap & put it on shelf in garage. Put in spare battery, tried to start but not enough. Put original battery on charge.

Saturday February 18th 2017

Cleaned floors of car. Started engine, ran for 10/15 mins. Sounds great! Tried fitting gas struts to bonnet!

Thursday March 16th 2017

Fettle fuel tank to fit. Paint tank and diff & o/d covers in black.

Saturday March 25th 2017

Cut & drill stainless steel angle, fit to rear of boot to strengthen rear exhaust mountings as below left (mounted to bodywork). Clean & paint rear bumper irons, one set below right.


Monday March 27th 2017

Drove car out of garage for new garage door to be fitted! The old and new doors can be seen below, with the GT6 safely in it's Hamilton cover while the new door was fitted.


Tuesday April 4th 2017

Fitted the TSSC Shop gas strut kit to bonnet. There is a story to this, as I spent a lot of time, and email correspondence with the TSSC trying to successfully fit it. The lower brackets didn't seem designed to fit the GT6 Mk2 at all, and the TSSC failed to send me a single picture of one fitted to a Mk2.

Sunday June 11th 2017

Removed gas struts completely (to send back for a full refund) as found that they were pulling the bonnet back towards the body tub! Ordered s/s conventional strut from Canleys. Started fitting rear bumper 'irons'.

Friday June 23rd 2017

Fitted new stainless steel bonnet strut, see old and new below.

Also fitted LH & RH rear bumper irons with rubber washers and stainless steel fasteners. The LH (see 2nd and 3rd pictures further below) had the be ground away near the bottom to clear the fuel tank bracket, which must have been moved to a new position since the bodywork was done by Southside. The rear LH bumper was cleaned up, painted at the rear and fitted, also with stainless fasteners. The rear bumpers were purchased new in the 1980s, and are still in quite good condition.


Tuesday 4th July 2017

Re-assembled and rewired rear Reversing Light/Number Plate Housing.


Original parts for these are unobtainable as only the later GT6 Mk2 and Spitfire Mk3 use these housings and Triumph parts suppliers don't list them. I therefore obtained parts as follows:

1. Number Plate Lights : As Triumph Stag Boot Lights...........
2. Reversing Light Lens : NOS Jaguar Series1 E-Type (ebay).
3. Gasket : Made from O Ring Cord Nitrile Rubber.................
4. Fasteners are new stainless steel........................................
5. Everything else was refurbished........................................

Tuesday 4th July 2017

Rear lights fitted. US style additional stop lights are fitted in the holes meant for early GT6 reversing lights (these had to b redrilled as they had been blanked off in the first restoration) as an added safety measure.

Wednesday 26th July 2017

New aerial fitted.

Saturday 26th August 2017

Rear wiring loom now all connected up - first test of rear lights...

..and brake lights.

Monday 28th August 2017

Rear wiring loom tidied up!

Tuesday 29th August 2017

Painted bumper irons and inside of rear bumper.


Sunday 3rd September 2017

Rear RH bumper fitted.

And rear indicators now working!

Monday 4th September 2017

Diff cover replaced with new fasteners

Wednesday 6th September 2017

Fitted SilentCoat to fuel tank, then installed it into the car, after a quick rinse with petrol!


Saturday 9th September 2017

New SPAX shock absorbers arrived yesterday. Bought from JD Motorsport/eBay for a fraction of the price of other vendors, and they were sent directly from Spax Performance Ltd in Bicester so are the real deal!

Above are the new Spax and old Armstrong shock absorbers (which I had originally intended to sand down and repaint).

The thick washers which go on either side of the mountings are no longer available. These are 1/2 x 1.3/8" x 3mm (13mm x 35mm x 3mm). I bought some stainless metric ones (see below) which are 12.5mm x 35mm x 1.55mm). The washers are 1.5mm thick, so need to be doubled up to get the 3mm thickness of the original. The centres needed to be drilled out to 13mm to fit.

Sunday 10th September 2017

Now for the fuel line from the tank to the engine. The old line was ripped out, and I forgot to photograph it, so I'm not sure how to route the 5/16" copper replacement pipework around the rear transmission! A quick email to Andy Cooke, the TSSC GT6 Register, immediately elicited some images from his MkIII which proved useful. Thanks, Andy!

Monday 11th September 2017

Progess on the fuel line. I was initially concerned with routing it near moving parts, i.e. the rear LH driveshaft. However it appears that this is unavoidable, so I routed it around the smallest part of the driveshaft and just under the transverse leaf spring, keeping it clear of any spring movement, and also away from the handbrake cable.



The last picture shows the end, to be joined to the front section by a PTFE stainless steel braided pipe (temporarily fixed by a cable tie). I will leave the fitment of brackets, as a brake line has to occupy the same part of the chassis (see bracket).

While awaiting the other parts I need, I fixed the poly bushes to the shock absorbers. Hint - don't try to fit the centre tubes first, fit the bushes (using a large metal vice as a press) then the tubes!


Wednesday 13th September 2017

After drilling the washers (see Saturday 9th above) I fitted the LH shock absorber, torqueing the nyloc nuts to 55 lb-ft as per the workshop manual.

Friday 22nd September 2017

Removed the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburettor. Hard to get at the nut holding the bracked at the front of the engine, so I had to disconnect the top hoses and move the radiator forward (see below):

Below is the old fuel pipe with the new one, shaped to match!

And in position:

Saturday 23rd September 2017

Started installing the brake pipes (while I await the stainless steel braided flexible lines for the fuel pipe). The brake union (below, right) is upside down because I can't see that there is sufficient room for the pipe going to the RHS of the car to go upwards, there would only be an inch to spare! However, I'll try! Otherwise the pipe can go downwards, then curve upwards.


Monday 25th September 2017

With arrival of new stainless bolt and P clip from Grove, refitted 1/4" fuel pipe to front of the engine, and then put back radiator and hoses.

I'm not happy with the corrosion on the overflow pipe coming out of the radiator just under the cap:

It either needs replacing, or just cleaning up?